Outils requis:
Douille 10MM
Douille 17MM
Douille 19MM
"Ratchet"
Une barre de force avec une tête de "ratchet" (optionnel)
Une extension de 3" (pas montré)
Clé 4MM Hex
Clé 5MM Hex
Clé 10MM
Paire de "pince aiguille"
Douille à bougie de Yamaha
Jauge d'épaisseur (Feeler gauge)
Tournevis étoile (ou une douille tournevis comme sur les photos)
Le livre de service Yamaha pour les spécifications de torque et d'espacement pour les valves.
Optionnel: 2$

TRÈS IMPORTANT D'AVOIR UN MOTEUR FROID!!!! La meilleure chose à faire c'est d'attendre que le moteur est resté au repos pour la nuit.





Premièrement faut enlevé les ailes avants et le "capot".
Utilisez une douille 10MM pour enlever les boulons (pointé avec les flèches rouges).
Utilisez une douille 10MM et le tournevis étoile pour enlever les vis et boulons (flèches bleues)







Enlevez le "capot" avec la clé Hex 4MM (flèches jaunes)



Une fois le "capot" enlevé, défaire le dernier boulon 10MM qui retien les ailes avants(flèche rouge)




Maintenant enlevez le couvert de plastique sur le dessus du réservoir d'essence (les ailes avants ne peuvent pas être enlevées avec ce couver en place). Il est retenu par des attaches vissées, seulement un demi tour avec un tournevis étoile permet des enlever. (flèches rouges)







Il serait une bonne idée de le nettoyer avant de l'enlever parce que le bouchon du réservoir doit être ouvert. Vous voulez pas de sables dans votre résversoir!!!



Maitenant vous êtes près à enlever les ailes avants.
Il se peut que vous allez vous battre avec si c'est la première fois que vous les enlever.

You have to pry a little on those tabs to lift the plastic as they're holding by that little bump where you removed the bolts.







Now that the front plastic is free to move, lift it ~4-5" but be careful! the reverse knob might hold it a little. You dont want to break it




Now pry the back of the plastic so both sides will go arround the wire and cables on each side of the steering (pink arrows) and pull it toward you.






Now with the plastic off




Now you have to remove the 2 remaining 10MM bolts on the gas tank (red arrow)






Turn off the petcock (green arrow) and remove the gas line (blue arrow)







Now put the gas tank where the petcock will not touch anything, a milk crate if perfect for this task!




Now you have access to a rubber hood that covers the intake valve tappet cover. You have to remove it by "fighting" those 2 reusable tiewraps (green arrow).



Since you'll take to turn over the engine manually, remove the spark plug with the yamaha spark plug socket. You'll need your ratchet and the 17MM socket.

Again you might want to wipe off the dirt before you remove the spark plug cap.

*no pics of this step*

Once the plug is removed you need to take off the covers for the timing and crank bolt (red arrow). A Candian 2$ will fit perfectly and will not damage your

covers (a 1$ wont fit, it's too tick). If you're not Canadian or do not have a 2$, you may try a big screw driver but be careful as those covers are in

plastic.



Those are the 2 covers. Watch those little O-rings!!! They might stick on the engine and fall off. You're better to remove them and keep them on the covers.
Clean them up too! (green arrows)



This is what you'll see once the covers are off.

I always wipe off the oil in the thread with a rad or scott towel and then use it to remove the dirt around the hole (green arrow). The dirt will stick in

the oil and wont enter the engine.




Now take the ratchet (or breaker bar), 3" extension and 19MM socket (3/4 will work too but it`s a little too big) and turn the engine COUNTER CLOCKWISE

(yellow arrow). Align the I mark with the grove (red arrow)







Once they're alligned, take off the intake valves tappet cover, you might want to clean it before with a rag as you dont want any dirt in your engine!!! It's

holding with 4 5MM hex screws (blue arrow)





Clean up the mating surface of the cover and the O-ring (green arrow)


Now you have access to the intake valves (red arrow) and clean the surface on the engine (green arrow). Be careful with the cleaning!!! Again you dont want

any dirt in your engine!




Now to find out if you're at TOP DEAD CENTER (or TDC) I alway use a smaller feeler, if it's not going in, your most likely crank turn off (which means you're

not at TDC).

As stated in the service manual, if there's no clearance, you're not there yet (need to do another turn).

See the picture, the .076 isn't going (I use the .076MM feeler because I know my valves wont out of spec that bad).



I did another counter clock wise turn and now it's freely going in!




Now the clearence specs for the stock cam are .100MM to .150MM .

I always use the feeler the closest to the average which is .125MM (with my feeler the closest is .127MM)

It have to be a snug fit! not too loose and not too tight.

If the valves are within specs the .100MM feeler will go in freely and the .150MM will not fit in!!!
If the .100MM is tight or .150MM is loose it's time to adjust the valves.

The way I do it is, I loosen up the lock nut with the 10MM key (red arrow), take the needle plier and turn ~1/2 the adjuster with the needler plier (yellow

arrow). Fit in the .127MM feeler, tight the adjuster back a little and retight the lock nut! Do it for the 3 intake valves.





Once it's done I do 4 or 6 COUNTER CLOCKWISE turns on the engine with the ratchet (or breaker bar).

Recheck the valves! If within Specs, put back the tappet cover! YOU'RE DONE for the INTAKE!




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Now it's time for the exhaust valves! They're a little tricky to do because the space is LIMITED!!!


Take off the 2 exhaust valves tappet covers with the 17MM socket (yellow arrow).




See there's not much space to play around



See where you have to squeez in the feeler




To do the exhaust it's easier with a bent feeler, I bent mine with a custom angle where it fits quite easily.





As I do with the exhaust I go with an average to adjust the valves.

Specs with the stock cam are .150MM to .200MM. Myself I go with the closest I have which is .176MM.

To insert the feeler easily, I slide from left to right!





Again for the specs If the .200MM doesn't fit and the .150MM is loose, you OK. If the .200MM fits, even snug, I'll retight them a little.
If the .150MM is snug, I'll try to loose them up to .176MM. Do that for both exhaust valves.

Once adjusted, I'll turn again the engine 4 or 6 turns COUNTER CLOCKWISE and recheck. If they're not within specs, do it again!.
If they're within specs. Put back the tappet covers, YOU'RE DONE!!!!